In recent decades, the pressure to have a face free of wrinkles and other signs of aging has increased: hyaluronic acid, a substance that can be applied to the inner parts of the skin to promote moisture, tighten the skin to give the face the appearance it needs, especially on the chin. cheeks, lips and eyelids.
The popular "revitalizing facial" product has been touted as a beauty cream and beauty clinic ads.
But can it be used by everyone? Are there any side effects from using this beauty product? And what is the difference between creams sold in stores and injections given by doctors?
By answering these five questions we explain the challenges associated with this product.
1. What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a substance produced by our own bodies and those of some animals.
It has the function of maintaining the natural moisture of the cells that make up the inner layers of the skin, as well as supporting and replenishing this tissue.
"Over the years due to the aging process, we lose extra skin, which becomes thin and loose," explains doctor Alessandra Grassi Salles, coordinator of the Aesthetic, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery Group at the Department of Medicine of the University of Sao Paulo ( USP), in Brazil.
This "extra skin" mentioned by the expert corresponds precisely to all the substances that "fill" the skin and hold the skin cells together.
As the years go by and the production of this essential acid decreases, it is normal for the upper part of our body to sag, get wrinkles and eventually become thinner.
With the passage of years and the natural depletion of these compounds, it is normal for the upper layer of our body to weaken, get wrinkles and eventually become thinner.
Here is the need to apply hyaluronic acid: the goal is to revitalize the body and increase the amount of this substance, to keep the skin in the desired condition.
2. What is the difference between a cream and an injection?
"The big problem with hyaluronic acid that is produced by the body does not last long. The body absorbs it in less than 48 hours," says Dr. Daniel Boro, of the Society of Plastic Surgery in Brazil.
"The industry developed another form of this substance that is more resistant and capable of remaining in the body for months."
Currently, hyaluronic acid is injected in procedures known as aesthetic which is obtained through the processing of some organisms that can only be seen through a microscope.
The cream contains a synthetic version of this ingredient. The older your face gets, the more wrinkles you get.
In addition to the construction, the two types of products have fundamental differences in the operating procedure.
"The primary function of the cream is to promote very high skin moisture. The injections have the function of filling, helping the face to shine," says Dr. Alessandra Ribeiro Romiti, consultant of the Body Cosmetics Department from the Brazilian Society of Dermatology.
Experts explain that the cream produces large molecules that cannot pass through the first part of the skin.
With this, it is unlikely that the hyaluronic acid that is part of the formulation exceeds and fills the extracellular matrix mentioned above.
The same moisturizing effect, by the way, is observed in tablets that also contain this ingredient.
However, before you start using any of these features, it is best to seek expert guidance.
"If the person has oily skin and uses a lot of cream, there is a risk of this habit clogging the skin pores and causing acne," explains Salles.
3. Who should hyaluronic acid be used by?
In general, there are no recommendations that are suitable for all people.
"We can apply hyaluronic acid to the body as part of controlling the skin's aging process," says Boro.
According to Romiti, everything will depend on what the patient is looking for and his personal characteristics.
"There is no correct age to start treatment. There are people Salles adds that, with the possibility of correcting certain features of the face through new cosmetic technologies such as hyaluronic acid, the health professional needs to understand the motivation of each person.
"It's a big mistake to think that we need to have a 30-year-old face to be happy. If we don't find out what's going on in the patient, he may have a new face, but he won't be fully satisfied," he says.
4. Are the results after application final?
No. The Hyaluronic Acid used in this procedure lasts for a long time, and is slowly absorbed by the body. "It all depends on the type of gel and what part of the face it will be applied to," Boro answers.
"In general, it stays in the layers of the skin for about a year, but this time usually varies between six and 18 months."
It is worth clarifying here that not all hyaluronic acid is the same: there are more stable formulations and others that are more biodegradable.
Professionals choose the right type according to the part of the face and the desired result.
For the chin or jaw, for example, a special gel may be necessary, while on the lips or eyelids, it is better to use a simple product, which will allow more natural movement of the mouth or eyes.
In addition to stability, another factor that interferes with the duration of hyaluronic acid is the movement of surface structures.
They tend to go faster in areas that move a lot, like the lips and eyes, and linger longer in areas that don't move, like the chin.
But of course, experts do not wait until hyaluronic acid is completely exhausted to show new applications.
"We do regular monitoring and have protocols in place to make changes, as needed," says Bor
5. Is there a risk of harm after doing this procedure?
Adverse effects can occur and it is important that professionals and patients know how to recognize them in order to act quickly and prevent damage.
One of the most feared risks occurs when the product is applied to the wrong part of the face.
With this, hyaluronic acid can get stuck in the blood vessels that support the face, which will lead to tissue death in the nose, lips or even blindness.
"To reduce this risk, it is important to do this procedure with professionals who have a lot of experience," says Salles.
"This is not something you learn in a weekend course. It takes years of learning to understand all the nuances of facial anatomy. And even the most experienced professionals can make mistakes".
To reduce the damage, it is possible to use an enzyme called hyaluronidase, which has the function of absorbing the misused hyaluronic acid.
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